This is exactly what I was looking for. used server rack is awesome and was the best investment I ever made.
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How Do I Get My Vent Server To Work, Or Any Other Server For That Matter...?
I Have Been Racking My Brain For Some Time Now, I Am Trying To Set Up My Computer To Host...Anything... But I Cant.All Firewalls Are Turned OFF, That Includes My Router(I Have A Lynksys WRT54G)I Have Tried To Put My Computer In The DMZ.I Have Tried To Open All Ports(0-65535 On Both UDP And TCP(And Each Individually))If used server rack I Go To DynDNS.com It Tells Me That I Am Open With UDP, But TCP Times Out.I Can Connect To My Own Server Using 127.0.0.1 Or localhost, But I Can't Connect Using My Own IP, Nor Can My Friend.I Have ATT Yahoo DSL, And I'm Using Windows Vista(Had Same Problem With XP).I Am Pretty Experienced WIth Computers And Networking, I Just Havn't A Clue What Could Be Wrong...Please Help!Thanks For Everything And Anything.Thank You Tracy L! You Helped A Lot, Although It Was The Real Answer To My Question Was A Typo In My Port Forwarding(DUH) Your Answer Lead Me To Retrace My Steps And Find The Error And Also Taught Me A Few Things That I Didn't Know, I'm Glad You Took The Time Out Of Your Day To Help Me, And I Hope You Go On Helping Others. Thank You Again
The journey to custom-build a server rack started out when our project manager wanted to integrate mounts and space for LCD monitors, frame grabbers, KVM devices, and other equipment. Working in a data center, we already had partner agreements with several rack equipment manufacturers, but none could offer us anything beyond the standard 19” rack frame in standard configurations with 0.5U-8U size shelves.
The main idea behind having the new racks was to sort and organize all the external equipment without it getting cluttered. All used server rack but a few server rack manufacturers that I contacted said they are unable to extend the rack by another inch and provide space for equipment mounts. The ones that said they would do it gave me quotes that were higher than the cost of the equipment that would be stored on the rack. So, it was time to think outside the box and look for manufacturers of server, equipment, and other racks and shelving units that would be able to help me out.
After browsing the web, I came across a slate of T-slotted aluminum profile manufacturers, such as FrameXpert, that promised to sell me any custom rack, table, or shelving unit. For those that don’t know, T-slotted aluminum profiles or frames are pretty much the strongest lightweight material you can use for a project like this. For the most part, it looked like my rack would cost me under $500, which is a reasonable price for a well-built piece of equipment.
Overall, I couldn’t be more satisfied with our new server rack, as it allows us to store all our equipment, sort the cluttered cables, and was extremely easy to assemble. If you do require custom server racks, shelving, or any other lab or data centre storage equipment, I would highly suggest looking into T-slotted aluminum profiles.
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Set of HP Proliant DL580 G2 Server Rack Rail Kit US $135.00 End Date: Friday Jul-30-2010 18:32:13 PDT |
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IBM 39M4945 KVM/Redundant Management Module (MM) US $125.00 End Date: Saturday Jul-31-2010 12:35:39 PDT |
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2x 1GB PC2100 DELL POWEREDGE 1750 2600 2650 ECC REG RAM US $31.95 End Date: Saturday Jul-31-2010 10:01:34 PDT |
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HP Rack Roof Single Fan 4715MS-23T-B5A 257414-B21 US $52.32 End Date: Saturday Jul-31-2010 16:19:56 PDT |
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QTY 5 HP DL360 G3 DUAL 3.0GHZ-1MB 1GB 337054-001 US $500.00 End Date: Sunday Aug-01-2010 11:34:53 PDT |
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Server RAM 2GB 2x 1GB PC2100 DDR 266MHz ECC REG PC2100R US $29.95 End Date: Saturday Jul-31-2010 10:02:51 PDT |
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YouTube :: Tag // used server rack
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If he’s that annoying, just get rid of him and save yourself the aggravation
Best try a local Company for computers and systems, and see what they can do.. this needs a specialist.. and better to be done through that, as it is for business as well..Good luck, and have a great day …
You can set your computer to turn off the harddisk after a certain time of inactivity, just like you can set your monitor to turn off.
This is perfect for you its called the Instant Rack and these available in a 1u and a 2u. It’s for 19” rack mountable equipment and very strong. Weight rating is up to 75lbs and should be more then anything you mount on it. I think the thing I like most about it is it has holes drilled in it that are 16 inches apart perfect for mounting in residential applications on the studs horizontally on the drywall. Here’s a demo video on it.http://www.discount-low-voltage.com/inra2uwamobr.html
most of them have kbd/mouse/video ports – they are just PC motherboards in a small package… however, the video will be for console type work – NOT gaming. Many 1U chassis do allow you to install 1 PCI type card, so you can add your own video card.I have 4 1U’s in my rack now – and a 4u, and a few old 1U systems in storage. ALL of them are on a standard KVM switch.the rack is only to keep things well organized. Before I had a rack, we just had them stacked up on a wooden shelf.
You are on the right track. The only thing you would need to select to make it all work is the correct operating system. In the past I would have recommended Linux but Microsoft actually has a new product that simplifies everything and has gotten very good reviews – Windows Home Server. All you needs is a broadband connection and an Ethernet connection on your media server, and the system requirements are very reasonable. You can try it for 120 days free to see how you like it. There are system boards that support 8 sata controllers, so you should not have to worry about having to many through an PCI controller, look for one by Asus.
Since it sounds like there isn’t really anything you need or even want, you could just cover it up instead of putting something in there.
When you’re spec’ing out power for servers, you need to make sure you use the proper ratings. Although you are correct that the PSU will not draw 500W all the time, it is theoretically possible that every server in the rack will draw its maximum power at the same time. Underpowering a rack has very bad consequences (breakers flipping and servers powering down).Besides, I have never seen a server rack with 42 separate servers in it – that is a heck of a lot. Normally many of the slots are dedicated for keyboards and monitors, you’ll have 3U RAIDs, etc.
This site should help you out’http://support.dell.com/support/downloads/driverslist.aspx?c=us&l=en&s=gen&ServiceTag=&SystemID=PWE_1950&os=WNET&osl=en&catid=&impid=Cheers
Wow, this is a big job. I’m impressed you’re tackling this. You can put a 200amp panel in. I would suggest you go with a 42 breaker panel (which is the most you can have). 200 amps refers to the amount of amps that the three individual busses can accomodate. Just because you added up all the breakers and came up with 520 amps doesn’t mean that you will have that much power going through your panel. If I was your electrician, I would take a load reading during the middle of a hot day when everybody is working, this will give you an accurate picture of how much power is being used. You’ll need a clamp on ammeter to do this. You said 0/1 wire, but what I think you mean is 1/0 wire which is capable of carrying 170 amps.(for THHN wire). That’s for copper wire, if its aluminum then it’s 135 amps. (google wire ampacities) So I suggest you replace the fuses accordingly. Also if you have aluminum wires, pick up some penetrox at the supply store to help prevent oxidation in the connections.**************************************The fuses protect the 1/0 wire. Since 1/0 wire can only handle up to 170 amps, correct size fuses will “fail” before allowing any more amps to flow thru the wire. They protect what is downstream from them.As to how much amperage is in your service, you can find that information at the meter. The meter should tell you what amperage its rated for.Fred brings up a good point. The potential for making a mistake could result in a loss of production more costly than having the job done by professionals.Also, I’m curious if the existing panel has conduits going into it or “romex” cables. If it’s conduit, then it’ll be challenging punching the correct size holes in the exact configuration in the new panel enclosure.
Most rack mountable equipment is designed to fit a given width and depth….the ONLY variance is the HEIGHT of the equipment…Since your server is only 1 or 2 U it’ll fit easily…..
I am from a company that makes a server rack that reduces noise (XRackPro.com), but let me tell you about other choices as well.There are some server racks made in the UK if you are in Europe, but they are fairly expensive to bring over. There is the option for refrigerated server racks, but they can be thousands of dollars more than even our XRackPro2.We sell only 4U, 6U, 12U and 25U sizes; so if you need something taller, we would not be a good choice. The XRackPro2 is fairly sealed and uses ultra quiet, high volume fans for heat removal.
Backups? Filesharing? Large multimedia collection?There’s something to be said for having a central location for data, accessible from any PC in the house.————————————–Internet speed is way slower than LAN speed. I backup around 150 gigabytes. Most of it is incremental, every third is a full backup. By the time the first day’s was finished, the second would be way overdue, if I were using Internet backups. On top of that my ISP (Comcast) monitors my bandwidth consumption.Besides, in this day and age, I don’t want my financials and other private information under someone else’s prying eye…. I don’t care what they say.I used to have a drive accessible through the internet (an FTP server) I found that it was only a target for hackers. Some guys (mainly from China, it seems) would literally spend days trying to guess my password at 3 guesses per second. Of course they were using automated processes,
What is the IP of the computer? When you connect to the Linksys, the router will issue a DHCP ip to it. The default LAN IPs are usually like 192.168.1.100 – 150. So you computer should have one of those addresses. You need to know that FIRST. and if its a server you SHOULD set it to a “static” IP outside the DHCP range. I would say set it to 192.168.1.10 with a 255.255.255.0 subnet and 192.168.1.1 gateway and use 192.168.1.1 as the dns server as well. Then you can set THAT IP in the routers DMZ so that all incoming traffic will go to that internal IP! (If you use DHCP your internal address may change and then the server doesn’t work!!!!) The way this works is your EXTERNAL IP hits the router the router says OK and FORWARDS that request to the correct INTERNAL IP (that’s what the DMZ does) Your server has to always be on that internal IP! (You can’t set your server to the public IP UNLESS you have more than one IP address because your router will have the Public IP assigned to IT and you can’t use any single IP twice.)From INSIDE you should be able to ping and to pull the internal address from any other LAN computer http://192.168.1.10 (in the case I outlined) should get your server! If you can’t ping it the IP isn’t set correctly or the FIREWALL is blocking the request!Be sure you allow the firewall to pass traffic to all the ports you need! (DONT open UDP unless you really need to, its an invitation to easy hacking!!)The fact that 127.0.0.1 works just means the loopback is active.. try the real IP (and that has to be a LAN IP not a public one UNLESS you have multiple public IPs) and configure the system properly!All that being said, AT&T DSL may well NOT ALLOW SERVERS!!!! So you need to check your terms of service! It is possible that your server will only work on your local LAN! Usually ISP’s get more money to allow servers because you need more UPLOAD speed for them to work well.